![]() ![]() I’m not interested in symmetry as I reckon that would be difficult to achieve. I’m quite happy to have both siphons running some portion of the total return and to have both e-drains having some amount of trickle. I understand all the points you listed above as well as in your introductory Herbie article, but I haven’t seen any instructions as to how to get started configuring and testing, particularly for this configuration. two external boxes each fitted with 1 siphon and 1 e-drain with all four lines independent. I’m intending to use option 1 in your article above, i.e. I don’t think that in reality the total return rate from the pumps will approach 1800 GPH but lets assume for the moment that it will My target turnover rate will be 10X so I assume each pump can be set at 50% to 70%. The tank is 180G and in the sump will be two independent identical DC return pumps each rated at 2000 GPH. This is to be used as a freshwater CO2 injected planted tank, and for years, I’ve only ever used closed loop systems so I’m completely unfamiliar with sumps. I’ll be taking delivery of a custom aquarium. Thanks very much for your insightful articles. A siphon must have it’s own independent valve and pipe extending down into the sump water to a chamber with a constant water level. Gaining control over the water level in each overflow is only possible with individual siphons, or by connecting the two overflows with a Balance Pipe. One line will always affect the other if they connect in any way. These variations will always be present and changing the flow in the pipes over hours or days. The reason is that there are slight variations in flow from each siphon, like algae on the strainer or overflow teeth. No configuration of valves or having equal lengths of pipe will change this. ![]() A siphon will always function as one unit, so the two intakes will affect each other no matter what. You see, it is nearly impossible to keep the water level in two separate overflows balanced if they’re connected by the drain line. This is usually done below the tank under the bulkheads by using a “T” fitting. Some people wish to have only one drain line going to their sump, so they attempt to join the two Herbie siphons together. Option 4: What to Avoid – Teeing both siphon drains together These are often changed into siphon standpipes with a Herbie conversion because they are often the smaller of the two in diameter. These tanks often come with a return line running up through the overflow box. Do your homework with flow rates and required turnover if you have a tank with anything less than 1″ bulkheads in the overflows. Reef-ready tanks may have small bulkhead openings compared to the size of the tank. These drains also have only a fraction of the capacity of a siphon-based drain.īy converting the tank to use a siphon-based method like the Herbie or Bean method, the drains become silent and get more capacity to move a lot of water. If air moves down the pipe, there will be splashing down in the sump which can generate microbubbles or lead to salt creep. There are many contraptions that attempt to quiet the drain with varying success (Durso, Stockman, Hofer etc.). Air and water move through the drain at the same time, creating noise. Single-pipe-drains require no adjustment, but have several drawbacks. Reasons to Update from a Single Drain System ![]()
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